Trouble Shooting Guide
Frequently asked questions and trouble shooting tips for your light. If these don't work, please complete the warranty form with required information.
Serial number can be located on the light and will start with 2 digits (for example 14, 15, 16, etc.)
Do not use any "Air sprayer" to clean out lights or battery cradles as permanent damage could occur.
* Lights purchased within the past 12 months by consumer are covered under warranty. Replacement parts are available for out of warranty lights
* MUST HAVE PROOF OF PURCHASE WITHIN 12 MONTHS TO RECEIVE RA#. DIVER ERROR WILL NOT BE HANDLED AS WARRANTY
If a Return Authorization number (RA#) is issued, the light MUST be returned within 30 days of receiving RA# to qualify for warranty.
Mera Light + Camera
| Problem | Possible Solution | Replacement Part |
| Light won't turn on. | Check that the batteries are fully charged. Ensure that batteries are installed correctly (flat end of battery against the spring) and tail cap is completely screwed on to make full contact. Hold light button for up to 5 seconds to turn on. | IT26650-A (battery) |
| Light flickers/dims. | Ensure tail cap is completely screwed on to make full contact. Make sure batteries are installed correctly. Make sure all contact surfaces in the torch are clean (especially the inside threads of the end cap). | |
| Light body appears flooded. | Request RA# to return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error. | |
| Card won't read in my Apple devices. | Contact warranty@tovatec.com for upgrade to help Apple devices. Upgrade makes it so the files are named and placed into folders that Apple recognizes. | |
| My SD card doesn't seem to work. | Make sure it is a Class 10 or higher Micro SD card (Class 10, UHS 1, V10). | |
| 26650 battery doesn't work. | Make sure you have a Tovatec 26650-A battery only. | IT26650-A |
| Pictures seem to have a blue tint. | Filters will be available Q1 2019. | |
| Lighted camera indicator space is blinking red. | SD card is full. System will overwrite the oldest video, but will not allow pictures to be taken. | |
| Light isn't taking pictures. | Ensure you are pressing the camera button quickly to illuminate a quick red flash to indicate that the picture was taken. | |
| Video button isn't working. | Make sure camera button is on first, it will not operate with the camera button off. | |
| Spare O-ring seems odd. | Ensure that you have 2 o-rings to replace older o-rings (o-ring sleeve is not to be used with the light). |
Galaxy II Video Light
| Problem | Possible Solution | Replacement Part |
| Light won't turn on. | Check that the battery is fully charged. Ensure that battery is installed correctly and tail cap is completely screwed on to make full contact. Hold switch A for 1 second and the power indicator will turn on. | GVL II BAT |
| Light hesitates when changing from Red to high power. | This is a built in feature to protect the LED. | |
| I can't get the light to change intensity in each mode | Press Switch B only to change the intensity of each light (Note: UV light is 100% only). | |
| Light won't turn off. | Press Switch A (only) for 1 second to power light off. | |
| SOS and Strobe function don't work. | In OFF status, hold the switch-A for 1 second, when the battery indicator lights up, hold switch-A and switch-B for 5 seconds at the same time, only the spotlight source enters the SOS mode. Switch to 10HZ strobe mode by pressing Switch B for less than 1 second. It will switch back to the SOS when you press Switch-B again. To turn off the SOS or 10HZ by holding switch-A for 1 second. | |
| I need a back up battery. | Order battery. | GVL II BAT |
Fusion light series (FUS260, FUS530, FUS1000)
| Problem | Possible Solution | Replacement Part |
| Light won't turn on. | Check that the batteries are fully charged. Ensure that batteries are installed correctly and tail cap is completely screwed on to make full contact. | FUS260 IT14500 FUS530 IT18650 Fus1000 IT26650 |
| Light flickers/dims. | Ensure tail cap is completely screwed on to make full contact. Make sure batteries and battery cradle (if being used) are installed correctly. Make sure all contact surfaces in the torch are clean (especially the inside threads of the end cap). | |
| Light body appears flooded. | Remove light head to verify that it is the bulb part and not just the light head. The light heads are easily replaceable. If not just the light head, request RA# to return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*. | RP-FUS260-LTHD RP-FUS530-LTHD RP-FUS1000-LTHD |
| Light head has water in it and appears to be turning yellow or flaking, but the rest of the light is fine. | Replace light head. | RP-FUS1000-LTHD RP-FUS530-LTHD RP-FUS260-LTHD |
| Switch is broken. | Call in for replacement switch and video to remove/replace switch. | RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT |
| Switch seems struck. | A common problem we see is magnetic switches sticking. All our lights use magnetic switches. This occurs when diving in salt water - sometimes after a dive salt will dry on the magnetic plates causing the switch to malfunction. Try soaking your entire light in Hot water for 10- 15 minutes then keep the light in the water (as hot as you can take it) and depress or slide the switch on and off several times. Repeat this procedure a few times. If this doesn't work, try using WD40 to break through the salt crystals - let it sit for a few minutes. If it doesn't work, replace switch. | RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT |
| LED doesn't work. | Do NOT remove light head. Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty. Return for testing*. | |
| O-ring is sticking/worn out. | Keeping o-rings clean and lubricated is the best way to avoid a flooded light. Clean and lubricate often. Replace o-ring when needed. | FUS260 RP-FUS260-ORING FUS530 RP-FUS500-ORING FUS1000 RP-FUS1000-ORNG |
| End cap won't come off. | Spray with WD40 to dissolve salt crystals. Do not use tools to remove. Tool marks will void warranty. | |
| Light/ battery area seems corroded. | Typically not a warranty issue. Clean light after each use. Do not leave batteries in light for an extended period of time. | Replacement battery Holders FUS530 RP-F530-BTHD FUS1000 RP-F1000-BTHD |
| Switch broke off. | Replace switch. | RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT |
| Battery is draining when left in light. | Only reported for FUS260 pre-production run. Supply serial number for verification for RA#. | |
| I lost FUS260 Extension, rechargeable batteries, chargers or cables for my lights, etc. | Contact Warranty@tovatec.com to purchase replacements. | |
| Do I have to cycle through all modes to turn off the light. | No, after light has been on 5 seconds in one mode, it will turn off when pushed up. | |
| How and where do I put on the o-ring that is in the package | This is a spare o-ring, there is already an oring on the tail cap. Keep this to replace the orginal when needed. |
UV Light (UV01)
| Problem | Possible Solution | Replacement Part |
| Light won't turn on. | Check that the batteries are fully charged. Ensure that batteries are installed correctly and tail cap is completely screwed on to make full contact. | IT18650 |
| Light flickers/dims. | Ensure tail cap is completely screwed on to make full contact. Make sure batteries and battery cradle (if being used) are installed correctly. Make sure all contact surfaces in the torch are clean (especially the inside threads of the end cap). | |
| Light body appears flooded. | Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*. | |
| Light head has water in it and appears to be turning yellow or flaking, but the rest of the light is fine. | Replace light head. | RP-UV01-LTHD |
| Switch is broken. | Call in for replacement switch and video to remove/replace switch. | RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT |
| Switch seems struck. | A common problem we see is magnetic switches sticking. All our lights use magnetic switches. This occurs when diving in salt water - sometimes after a dive salt will dry on the magnetic plates causing the switch to malfunction. Try soaking your entire light in Hot water for 10- 15 minutes then keep the light in the water (as hot as you can take it) and depress or slide the switch on and off several times. Repeat this procedure a few times. If this doesn't work, try using WD40 to break through the salt crystals - let it sit for a few minutes. If it doesn't work, replace switch. | RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT |
| LED doesn't work. | Do NOT remove light head. Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty. Return for testing*. | |
| O-ring is sticking/worn out. | Keeping o-rings clean and lubricated is the best way to avoid a flooded light. Clean and lubricate often. Replace o-ring when needed. | RP-FUS500-ORING |
| End cap won't come off. | Spray with WD40 to dissolve salt crystals. Do not use tools to remove. Tool marks will void warranty. | |
| Light/ battery area seems corroded. | Typically not a warranty issue. Clean light after each use. Do not leave batteries in light for an extended period of time. | RP-F530-BTHD |
| Switch broke off. | Replace switch. | RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT |
| Do I have to cycle through all modes to turn off the light. | No, after light has been on 5 seconds in one mode, it will turn off when pushed up. |
T1000 USB Lights (T1000S & T1000V)
| Problem | Possible Solution | Replacement Part |
| Light won't turn on. | Make sure it is the correct 18650-A battery. Check that the batteries are fully charged. Ensure that batteries are installed correctly and both the inside and tail cap is completely screwed on to make full contact. | IT18650-A |
| Light body appears flooded. | Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*. | |
| LED doesn't work. | Do NOT remove light head. Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty. Return for testing*. | |
| O-ring is sticking/worn out. | Keeping o-rings clean and lubricated is the best way to avoid a flooded light. Clean and lubricate often. Replace o-ring when needed. | RP-T1000-ORING |
| End cap won't come off. | Spray with WD40 to dissolve salt crystals. Do not use tools to remove. Tool marks will void warranty. | |
| Not sure charging unit is working. | Make sure the light starts out red, then changes to green. If it doesn't, replace the charing unit. If it does, verify batteries are good. | RP-T1000-ECCS |
| Body of light seems to be annodizing/corroding. | Make sure light is dry before charging as any salt water left on the light will cause the body to start corroding. | |
| Light gets hot. | These lights are for UNDERWATER USE ONLY. Do not use above water. | |
| How and where do I put on the o-ring that is in the package. | This is a spare o-ring, there is already an oring on the tail cap. Keep this to replace the orginal when needed. | |
| Do I have to cycle through all modes to turn off the light. | No, hold the button for 6 seconds and light will go off. |
Tovatec 3600 (TOV3600)
| Problem | Possible Solution | Replacement Part |
| Light won't turn on. | Check that the batteries are fully charged. Ensure that batteries are installed correctly and tail cap is completely screwed on to make full contact. Make sure battery cradle is installed correctly if using alkaline batteries. | IT26650 |
| Light flickers/dims. | Ensure tail cap is completely screwed on to make full contact. Make sure batteries and battery cradle (if being used) are installed correctly. Make sure all contact surfaces in the torch are clean (especially the inside threads of the end cap). | |
| Light body appears flooded. | Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*. | |
| Light head has water in it and appears to be turning yellow or flaking, but the rest of the light is fine. | Replace light head. | RP-3600-LTHD |
| Switch is broken. | Call in for replacement switch and video to remove/replace switch. | RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT |
| Switch seems struck. | A common problem we see is magnetic switches sticking. All our lights use magnetic switches. This occurs when diving in salt water - sometimes after a dive salt will dry on the magnetic plates causing the switch to malfunction. Try soaking your entire light in Hot water for 10- 15 minutes then keep the light in the water (as hot as you can take it) and depress or slide the switch on and off several times. Repeat this procedure a few times. If this doesn't work, try using WD40 to break through the salt crystals - let it sit for a few minutes. If it doesn't work, replace switch. | RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT |
| LED doesn't work. | Do NOT remove light head. Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty. Return for testing*. | |
| O-ring is sticking/worn out. | Keeping o-rings clean and lubricated is the best way to avoid a flooded light. Clean and lubricate often. Replace o-ring when needed. | RP-T3600-ORING |
| End cap won't come off. | Spray with WD40 to dissolve salt crystals. Do not use tools to remove. Tool marks will void warranty. | |
| Light/ battery area seems corroded. | Typically not a warranty issue. Clean light after each use. Do not leave batteries in light for an extended period of time. Replace battery cradle. | RP-3600-BTHD |
| Switch broke off. | Replace switch. | RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT |
| Do I have to cycle through all modes to turn off the light. | No, after light has been on 5 seconds in one mode, it will trun off when slid up. |
ICOM II (Compact torch II) Dated 15 on
| Problem | Possible Solution | Replacement Part |
| Light won't turn on. | Ensure that tail cap is completely screwed on to make full contact. Check to make sure switch is not loose. Make sure batteries are intact and NEW. | RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT - switch/AAA Battery |
| Light flickers/dims. | Ensure tail cap is completely screwed on to make full contact. Make sure batteries are installed correctly. Make sure all contact surfaces in the torch are clean (especially the inside threads of the end cap). | |
| Light appears flooded. | Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*. | |
| Switch is broken. | Call in for replacement switch and video to remove/replace switch. | RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT |
| Switch seems struck. | A common problem we see is magnetic switches sticking. All our lights use magnetic switches. This occurs when diving in salt water - sometimes after a dive salt will dry on the magnetic plates causing the switch to malfunction. Try soaking your entire light in Hot water for 10- 15 minutes then keep the light in the water (as hot as you can take it) and depress or slide the switch on and off several times. Repeat this procedure a few times. If this doesn't work, try using WD40 to break through the salt crystals - let it sit for a few minutes. If it doesn't work, replace switch. | RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT |
| LED doesn't work. | Do NOT remove light head. Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty. Return for testing*. | |
| Endcap is worn out/broken. | Replace end cap. | RP-ICOMII-TSBT |
| O-ring is sticking/worn out. | Keeping o-rings clean and lubricated is the best way to avoid a flooded light. Clean and lubricate often. Replace o-ring when needed. | RP-SLS-ORING |
| End cap won't come off. | Spray with WD40 to dissolve salt crystals. Do not use tools to remove. Tool marks will void warranty. | |
| Light/ battery area seems corroded. | Typically not a warranty issue. Clean light after each use. Do not leave batteries in light for an extended period of time. Replace battery cradle with tail cap. | RP-ICOMII-TSBT |
| Battery cradle is corroded/broken or end cap needs to be replaced. | Replace tailcap/battery cradle (one piece). | RP-ICOMII-TSBT |
| Do I have to cycle through all modes to turn off the light. | No, after light has been on 5 seconds in one mode, it will turn off when slid up. | |
| How and where do I put on the o-ring that is in the package. | This is a spare o-ring, there is already an oring on the tail cap. Keep this to replace the orginal when needed. |
IFL 660-R - New Optimized in 2017 (new serial numbers will start with 17)
| Problem | Possible Solution | Replacement Part |
| Rechargeable batteries won't work in the light, but CR123 work fine. | Ensure you are using Tovatec approved batteries. Battery with intact cathode tip protruding 1mm minimum is required to make contact. Use a dental tool to gently pull the metal tab (on the inside, by the light head) up to make contact with battery (in rare cases this piece gets compressed). | IT18650/IT123 |
| Switch seems struck. | A common problem we see is magnetic switches sticking. All our lights use magnetic switches. This occurs when diving in salt water - sometimes after a dive salt will dry on the magnetic plates causing the switch to malfunction. Try soaking your entire light in Hot water for 10- 15 minutes then keep the light in the water (as hot as you can take it) and depress or slide the switch on and off several times. Repeat this procedure a few times. If this doesn't work, try using WD40 to break through the salt crystals - let it sit for a few minutes. If it doesn't work, replace switch. | RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT |
| Switch is broken. | Request replacement switch. | RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT |
| Light won't turn on. | Double check that batteries are fresh and/or charged. | IT123 or IT18650 |
| LED doesn't work. | Do NOT remove light head. Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty. Return for testing*. | |
| Spring is broken in end cap. | Replace end cap. | RP-N660-TLCAP |
| O-ring is sticking/worn out. | Replace o-ring. | RP-N660-ORING |
| End cap won't come off. | Spray with WD40 to dissolve salt crystals. Do not use tools to remove. Tool marks will void warranty. Make sure batteries and battery cradle (if being used) are installed correctly. Make sure all contact surfaces in the torch are clean (especially the inside threads of the end cap). | |
| Light appears flooded. | Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*. | |
| Light/ battery area seems corroded. | Typically not a warranty issue. Clean light after each use. Do not leave batteries in light for an extended period of time. |
Ultra III New Optimized in 2017 new serial numbers will start with 16 on)
| Problem | Possible Solution | Replacement Part |
| Light won't turn on. | Check batteries. Replace if necessary. Check battery holder to ensure it is intact and makes contact. Possibly replace switch. | 6 x AA RP-NULT3-BTHOLD RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT |
| Tail cap won't go on easily. | Clean O-rings with silicon. Replace O-rings if they are damaged. Make sure batteries and battery cradle (if being used) are installed correctly. Make sure all contact surfaces in the torch are clean (especially the inside threads of the end cap). | RP-NULT3-ORING |
| Switch seems struck. | A common problem we see is magnetic switches sticking. All our lights use magnetic switches. This occurs when diving in salt water - sometimes after a dive salt will dry on the magnetic plates causing the switch to malfunction. Try soaking your entire light in Hot water for 10- 15 minutes then keep the light in the water (as hot as you can take it) and depress or slide the switch on and off several times. Repeat this procedure a few times. If this doesn't work, try using WD40 to break through the salt crystals - let it sit for a few minutes. If it doesn't work, replace switch. | RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT |
| Battery holder is broken/corroded. | Replace battery holder. | RP-NULT3-BTHOLD |
| End cap won't come off. | Spray with WD40 to dissolve salt crystals. Do not use tools to remove. Tool marks will void warranty. | |
| LED doesn't work. | Do NOT remove light head. Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty. Return for testing*. | |
| Spring is broken in end cap. | Replace end cap. | RP-NULT3-TLCAP |
| O-ring is sticking/worn out. | Replace o-ring. | RP-NULT3-ORING |
| Light appears flooded. | Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*. | |
| Light/ battery area seems corroded. | Typically not a warranty issue. Clean light after each use. Do not leave batteries in light for an extended period of time. |
Sports Tac Light (ST2000) - DISCONTINUED - REPLACED WITH FUS260
| Problem | Possible Solution | Replacement Part |
| Light won't turn on. | Check that the battery is fully charged. Ensure that tail cap is completely screwed on to make full contact. May be a switch problem (return for evaluation if still under warranty). | |
| Light flickers/dims. | Ensure tail cap is completely screwed on to make full contact. Make sure battery is installed correctly and fully charged. | |
| Battery won't charge/ won't hold charge. | Make sure battery is placed correctly in the light (positive side towards the light head) and charging base is screwed down tightly. Ensure USB is fully inserted into device and light. If all fails, replace battery. | IT14500 |
| USB charger flickers from red to green when light is fully charged. | Not a product defect, light will operate as intended. | |
| The charging indicator light is always red, does not change to green light after suitable charging time. | The charging unit may be defective. Replace unit. | RP-ST200-USBEC |
| Light is flashing. | Recharge battery, there is a low battery indicator on the light. | |
| Light appears flooded. | Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*. | |
| Switch is broken. | Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*. | |
| Switch seems struck. | A common problem we see is magnetic switches sticking. All our lights use magnetic switches. This occurs when diving in salt water - sometimes after a dive salt will dry on the magnetic plates causing the switch to malfunction. Try soaking your entire light in Hot water for 10- 15 minutes then keep the light in the water (as hot as you can take it) and depress or slide the switch on and off several times. Repeat this procedure a few times. If this doesn't work, try using WD40 to break through the salt crystals - let it sit for a few minutes. If it doesn't work, replace switch. | |
| LED doesn't work. | Do NOT remove light head. Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty. Return for testing*. | |
| Endcap is worn out/broken. | Replace end cap only (not charging unit). | RP-ST2000-ENDCP |
| O-ring is sticking/worn out. | Replace o-ring. | RP-ST2000-ORING |
| End cap won't come off. | Spray with WD40 to dissolve salt crystals. Do not use tools to remove. Tool marks will void warranty. | |
| Light/ battery area seems corroded. | Typically not a warranty issue. Clean light after each use. Do not leave batteries in light for an extended period of time. |
Compact Light (ICOM) - DISCONTINUED - REPLACED WITH ICOM II (old ICOM SERIAL # range 07 thru 14)
| Problem | Possible Solution | Replacement Part |
| Light won't turn on. | Check batteries. Replace if necessary. Check battery holder to ensure it is intact and makes contact. | 3 x AAA / RP-ICOM-BTHOLD (serail 13-14 ) |
| Light attempts to turn on when switch is depressed, but then immediately turns off. | Test the switch by placing one tip of metal scissors on the end of the battery cradle and the other tip on the inside metal of the tail end of the light. If the light goes on, the switch needs to be replaced. | RP-ICOM-NEWSWIT |
| Tail cap won't go on easily. | Clean O-rings with silicon. Replace O-rings if they are damaged. | RP-ICOM-ORING |
| Switch seems struck. | A common problem we see is magnetic switches sticking. All our lights use magnetic switches. This occurs when diving in salt water - sometimes after a dive salt will dry on the magnetic plates causing the switch to malfunction. Try soaking your entire light in Hot water for 10- 15 minutes then keep the light in the water (as hot as you can take it) and depress or slide the switch on and off several times. Repeat this procedure a few times. If this doesn't work, try using WD40 to break through the salt crystals - let it sit for a few minutes. If it doesn't work, replace switch. | RP-ICOM-NEWSWIT |
| Battery holder is broken/corroded. | Replace battery holder. | RP-ICOM-BTHOLD (works on lights with serial #13-14) |
| LED doesn't work. | Do NOT remove light head. Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty. Return for testing*. | |
| Spring is broken in end cap. | Replace end cap. | RP-ICOM-NEWSWI |
| O-ring is sticking/worn out. | Replace o-ring. | RP-ICOM-ORING |
| Tail switch won't come off. | Spray with WD40 to dissolve salt crystals. Do not use tools to remove. Tool marks will void warranty. | |
| Light appears flooded. | Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*. | |
| Light/ battery area seems corroded. | Typically not a warranty issue. Clean light after each use. Do not leave batteries in light for an extended period of time. | |
| Battery holder wires are damaged or broken. | Replace battery holder. | RP-ICOM-BTHOLD (works on lights with serial #13 - 14) |
IFL 660-R - REPLACED WITH OPTIMIZED LIGHTS (Old SERIAL # Range 08 thru 16)
| Problem | Possible Solution | Replacement Part |
| Rechargeable batteries won't work in the light, but CR123 work fine. | Ensure you are using Tovatec approved batteries. Battery with intact cathode tip protruding 1mm minimum is required to make contact. Make sure this is "R" version not older 660 version. Use a dental tool to gently pull the metal tab (on the inside, by the light head) up to make contact with battery (in rare cases this piece gets compressed). | IT18650 |
| Switch seems struck. | A common problem we see is magnetic switches sticking. All our lights use magnetic switches. This occurs when diving in salt water - sometimes after a dive salt will dry on the magnetic plates causing the switch to malfunction. Try soaking your entire light in Hot water for 10- 15 minutes then keep the light in the water (as hot as you can take it) and depress or slide the switch on and off several times. Repeat this procedure a few times. If this doesn't work, try using WD40 to break through the salt crystals - let it sit for a few minutes. If it doesn't work, replace switch. | RP-SIDE-NEWSWI |
| Switch is broken. | Request replacement switch (specify if switch has on/off). | RP-SIDE-NEWSWI |
| Light won't turn on. | Double check that batteries are fresh and/or charged. | IT123 or IT18650 |
| Batteries rattle. | If using CR123 batteries, use the spacer that was shipped with the light to hold them tight. Does not affect functionality of the light. | RP-CR123-SPACER |
| LED doesn't work. | Do NOT remove light head. Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty. Return for testing*. | |
| Spring is broken in end cap. | Replace end cap. | RP-IFL660R-TLCP |
| O-ring is sticking/worn out. | Replace o-ring. | RP-MULTI-ORING |
| End cap won't come off. | Spray with WD40 to dissolve salt crystals. Do not use tools to remove. Tool marks will void warranty. | |
| Light appears flooded. | Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*. | |
| Switch is stiff. | Remove the switch and inspect the magnet. Maybe a build-up of iron sand, or badly rusted magnet from lack of care. Use an old toothbrush to clean. Test the magnet without the bracket. Replace switch if needed. | RP-SIDE-NEWSWI |
| Light/ battery area seems corroded. | Typically not a warranty issue. Clean light after each use. Do not leave batteries in light for an extended period of time. |
IFL WA ZOOM-R - DISCONTINED - REPLACED WITH FUS530
| Problem | Possible Solution | Replacement Part |
| Rechargeable batteries won't work in the light, but CR123 work fine. | Ensure you are using Tovatec approved batteries. Battery with intact cathode tip protruding 1mm minimum is required to make contact. Make sure this is "R" version not older 660 version. Use a dental tool to gently pull the metal tab (on the inside, by the light head) up to make contact with battery (in rare cases this piece gets compressed). | IT18650 |
| Switch seems struck. | A common problem we see is magnetic switches sticking. All our lights use magnetic switches. This occurs when diving in salt water - sometimes after a dive salt will dry on the magnetic plates causing the switch to malfunction. Try soaking your entire light in Hot water for 10- 15 minutes then keep the light in the water (as hot as you can take it) and depress or slide the switch on and off several times. Repeat this procedure a few times. If this doesn't work, try using WD40 to break through the salt crystals - let it sit for a few minutes. If it doesn't work, replace switch. | RP-SIDE-NEWSWI |
| Switch is broken. | Request replacement switch (specify if switch has on/off). | RP-SIDE-NEWSWI |
| Light won't turn on. | Double check that batteries are fresh and/or charged. | IT123 or IT18650 |
| Batteries rattle. | If using CR123 batteries, use the spacer that was shipped with the light to hold them tight. Does not affect functionality of the light. | RP-CR123-SPACER |
| LED doesn't work | Do NOT remove light head. Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty. Return for testing*. | |
| Spring is broken in end cap. | Replace end cap. | RP-IFL-ZMR-TLCP |
| O-ring is sticking/worn out. | Replace o-ring. | RP-MULTI-ORING |
| End cap won't come off. | Spray with WD40 to dissolve salt crystals. Do not use tools to remove. Tool marks will void warranty. | |
| Light appears flooded. | Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*. | |
| Light/ battery area seems corroded. | Typically not a warranty issue. Clean light after each use. Do not leave batteries in light for an extended period of time. |
Ultra III - REPLACED WITH OPTIMIZED LIGHT (Old SERIAL # Range 08 thru 15)
| Problem | Possible Solution | Replacement Part |
| Light won't turn on. | Check batteries. Replace if necessary. Check battery holder to ensure it is intact and makes contact. Possibly replace switch. | 6 x AA / RP-ULTRA-BTHOLD (only serial # 13-15) / RP-SIDE-NEWSWI |
| Tail cap won't go on easily. | Clean O-rings with silicon. Replace O-rings if they are damaged. | RP-ULTNEW-ORING |
| Switch seems struck. | A common problem we see is magnetic switches sticking. All our lights use magnetic switches. This occurs when diving in salt water - sometimes after a dive salt will dry on the magnetic plates causing the switch to malfunction. Try soaking your entire light in Hot water for 10- 15 minutes then keep the light in the water (as hot as you can take it) and depress or slide the switch on and off several times. Repeat this procedure a few times. If this doesn't work, try using WD40 to break through the salt crystals - let it sit for a few minutes. If it doesn't work, replace switch. | RP-SIDE-NEWSWI |
| Battery holder is broken/corroded. | Replace battery holder. | RP-ULTRA-BTHOLD (serial #13-15 only) |
| End cap won't come off. | Spray with WD40 to dissolve salt crystals. Do not use tools to remove. Tool marks will void warranty. | |
| LED doesn't work. | Do NOT remove light head. Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty. Return for testing*. | |
| Spring is broken in end cap. | Replace end cap. | RP-ULTIII-TLCAP |
| O-ring is sticking/worn out. | Replace o-ring, tail cap/ body. | RP-ULTNEW-ORING |
| Light appears flooded. | Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*. | |
| Light/ battery area seems corroded. | Typically not a warranty issue. Clean light after each use. Do not leave batteries in light for an extended period of time. |
Search Light (SL1) - DISCONTINUED
| Problem | Possible Solution | Replacement Part |
| Light won't turn on. | Check batteries. Replace if necessary. | 3 x C |
| Tail cap won't go on easily. | Clean O-rings with silicon. Replace O-rings if they are damaged. | RP-SL1-ORING |
| Switch seems struck. | A common problem we see is magnetic switches sticking. All our lights use magnetic switches. This occurs when diving in salt water - sometimes after a dive salt will dry on the magnetic plates causing the switch to malfunction. Try soaking your entire light in Hot water for 10- 15 minutes then keep the light in the water (as hot as you can take it) and depress or slide the switch on and off several times. Repeat this procedure a few times. If this doesn't work, try using WD40 to break through the salt crystals - let it sit for a few minutes. If it doesn't work, replace switch. | RP-SL1-SWITCH (black)/RP-SL1-BZSWIT (bronze) |
| Tail switch won't come off. | Spray with WD40 to dissolve salt crystals. Do not use tools to remove. Tool marks will void warranty. | |
| LED doesn't work. | Do NOT remove light head. Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty. Return for testing*. | |
| Spring is broken in end cap. | Replace end cap. | RP-SL1-SWITCH (black)/RP-SL1-BZSWIT (bronze) |
| O-ring is sticking/worn out. | Replace o-ring. | RP-SL1-ORING |
| Light appears flooded. | Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*. | |
| Light attempts to turn on when switch is depressed, but then immediately turns off. | Test the switch by placing one tip of metal scissors on the end of the battery cradle and the other tip on the inside metal of the tail end of the light. If the light goes on, the switch needs to be replaced. | RP-SL1-SWITCH (black)/RP-SL1-BZSWIT (bronze) |
| Light/ battery area seems corroded. | Typically not a warranty issue. Clean light after each use. Do not leave batteries in light for an extended period of time. |
Beacon (BCON) - DISCONTINUED - REPLACED WITH TOV3600
| Problem | Possible Solution | Replacement Part |
| Light won't turn on/off. | Spray with wd-40 and rotate switch for several minutes. Soak in hot water to rinse debris away. | |
| Light doesn't work in all 3 positions. | Spray with wd-40 and rotate switch for several minutes. Soak in hot water to rinse debris away. | |
| Tail cap won't go on easily. | Clean O-rings with silicon. Replace O-rings if they are damaged. | RP-BCON-OREND |
| Switch seems struck / hard to rotate. | Spray rotating switch with WD-40 and let sit for a few minutes. Rotate switch back and forth several minutes. Rinse in hot water for a few minutes (or soak to get salt crystals out) and try light again. If this doesn't work, send in for testing*. | |
| One or more LED doesn't work. | Do NOT remove light head. Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty. Return for testing*. | |
| Spring is broken in end cap. | Replace end cap. | RP-BCON-TLCAP |
| O-ring is sticking/worn out. | Replace o-ring, tail cap/ body. | RP-BCON-OREND/RP-BCON-ORBODY |
| Diffuser is lost. | Order new part. | RP-BCON-DIFFUSE - no longer available |
| Need new battery. | Order new part. | BCON BAT - no longer available |
| Charger is lost. | Order new part. | RP-BCON-CHRGE - no longer available |
| Light appears flooded. | Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*. | |
| Battery won't charge. | Check charging pin on end of battery to ensure it is not bent/broken/shoved into battery. | BCON BAT - no longer available |
| Charger stays green when charging battery. | Try a different charger. If problem persists, replace charger and/or battery. Note: newest charger does not have a red/green light indicator. | |
| Light/ battery area seems corroded. | Typically not a warranty issue. Clean light after each use. Do not leave batteries in light for an extended period of time. |
Galaxy (GVL) - DISCONTINUED - REPLACED WITH GVL II
| Problem | Possible Solution | Replacement Part |
| Light won't turn on. | Check battery Charge if necessary. | Batteries no longer available |
| Light doesn't work in all 3 positions. | Spray with wd-40 and rotate switch for several minutes. Soak in hot water to rinse debris away. | |
| Switch seems struck / hard to rotate. | Spray rotating switch with WD-40 and let sit for a few minutes. Rotate switch back and forth several minutes. Rinse in hot water for a few minutes (or soak to get salt crystals out) and try light again. If this doesn't work, send in for testing*. | |
| One or more LED doesn't work. | Do NOT remove light head. Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty. Return for testing*. | |
| O-ring is sticking/worn out. | Replace o-ring. | RP-GVL-ORBODY |
| Can't separate light head from battery. | Spray with WD40 to dissolve salt crystals. Do not use tools to remove. Tool marks will void warranty. | |
| Need new battery. | Order new part. | GVL BAT - no longer available |
| Charger is lost. | Order new part. | GVL CHRGR - no longer available |
| New battery doesn't have connector adapter. | Order new part. | RP-GVL-BATBRKT - no longer available |
| Light appears flooded. | Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*. | |
| Battery won't charge. | Check charging pin on end of battery to ensure it is not bent/broken/shoved into battery. | GVL BAT - no longer available |
| Charger stays green when charging battery. | Try a different charger. If problem persists, replace battery and/or charger. | GVL CHRGR / GVL BAT - no longer available |
| Light/ battery area seems corroded. | Typically not a warranty issue. Clean light after each use. Do not leave batteries in light for an extended period of time. |